Luxury Tented Camp at Discounted Price

View from Boundary Hill Lodge

View from Boundary Hill Lodge

Stay at Boundary Hill Lodge at Tarangire National Park for a minimum of two nights between January 5 and June 30, 2009 and pay mid-range hotel prices.  Enjoy a luxury Tanzania safari for less!

Your visit to Boundary Hill Lodge would include a full day game drive inside Tarangire National Park, a walking safari, a night game drive, and a complimentary bottle of champagne upon arrival.

Built of natural materials, predominantly local stone, wood and burnt brick, Boundary Hill Lodge offers outstanding views over the Silale and Gosuwa swamps, where elephant and buffalo graze among the acacia and baobab trees beneath the vastness of Africa’s sky.

Luxury Room at Boundary Hill Lodge

Luxury Room at Boundary Hill Lodge

Consisting of only eight very spacious individually designed rooms, the lodge is designed to offer as much privacy as possible. None of the rooms are overlooked. All of them have private sitting areas, spacious balconies and spectacular views. Built in harmony with the environment, among the rocks and cliffs, of natural materials and colours, with fine furnishings, the rooms offer unparalleled comfort and quietly understated luxury. All have en-suite facilities with separate showers and five are double suites with cast-iron baths.

Game viewing is best from November to March, but there are also abundant animals from April to June.

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Benefits of Traveling to East Africa in Green Season (April-May)

Elephant in Amboseli, Kenya

Elephant in Amboseli, Kenya

April and May is the low season in East Africa, including Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda, and Rwanda.  This is actually a great time to visit and here are some of the benefits and drawbacks to consider.

PROS

  • Discounts on lodging (SEE BELOW)
  • No crowds
  • Easy to get gorilla permits
  • Although it’s rainy season, it typically doesn’t rainy all day every day (not a monsoon)
  • Flights are generally cheaper
  • Wildebeest migration typically in middle to western Serengeti (easy to get to)

CONS

  • Some days may be cloudy, which does not make the best photographs
  • Some smaller safari camps and Zanzibar hotels close down
  • Some roads in the Serengeti become muddy and impassible

LOW SEASON DISCOUNTS

  • On Tanzania safaris, book luxury lodging and pay standard hotel prices, or book standard hotels and pay basic camping prices
  • Kenya safaris get a 15% discount
  • Zanzibar hotels offer discounts of 10% or more
  • In Rwanda, the Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge is discounted 20%
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Aconcagua 2008-2009

Aconcagua Trek

Aconcagua Trek

It’s not too late to book your Aconcagua trek for the upcoming season.  Treks are done November-February.

Aconcagua is the highest peak in South America reaching 22,841 feet / 6962 meters high.

For this trek, you will need to bring crampons and and ice ax.  Your guide will provide lessons on using them.

The success rate is about 85%.  Safety is our highest priority!

The typical group size is 6-8 people with 12 people being the maximum.

GETTING THERE

You will need to get flights into Mendoza, Argentina.  The best way to reach Mendoza is via a connecting flight from either Buenos Aires, Argentina or Santiago, Chile.  From Buenos Aires, it is 2 hours by plane or 13 hours by bus to Mendoza. From Santiago, it is 50 minutes by plane or 6 hours by bus. If you come from Santiago, you will have the opportunity to survey the Andes as you cross over into Argentina.

Most citizens from the Americas and Europe do not need a visa.

ROUTES

We recommend the three most popular routes on the mountain: the Normal Route, the Polish Glacier Traverse, and the Vacas Valley.

The Normal Route is 17-18 days starting and ending in Mendoza.  The Polish Glacier Traverse ascends via Vacas Valley and descends the Normal Route and takes 18-19 days.  The Vacas Valley Route takes 17-18 days.

PRICING

We can arrange private treks, or you can join a group.  If you have 7 or more people, the price is the same or less for a private group.

The Normal Route and the Vacas Valley Route are $2735/person for a group trek.  The Polish Traverse is $2985/person for a group trek.

ACONCAGUA TREKS >>

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Book early and save $50-$100 on Peru treks!

Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

Throughout 2009, book your Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu at least four months in advance and save!

The 5-day Inca Trail trek is discounted $50/person, and the 8-day Salkantay trek is discounted $100/person.

This applies to group tours starting every Sunday and Wednesday (April-October) for the Inca Trail and group tours starting every Thursday (April-October).

July and August Inca Trail permits sell out months in advance, so it’s not too early to start booking your 2009 Inca Trail trek now!

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Gorilla Tracking in Uganda and Rwanda

AWR is excited to add Uganda and Rwanda gorilla tracking to our list of amazing places to visit!

Itineraries

We are currently offering two itineraries in Uganda and two in Rwanda.  However, we can also customize your itinerary to meet your interests and travel dates.

Gorilla permits are limited, so we recommend checking availability before booking your trip.

4 days Rwanda — Gorilla Trek + Dian Fossey’s Grave or Golden Monkeys

5 days Rwanda — Gorilla Trek + Dian Fossey’s Grave, Golden Monkeys, Karisimbi Volcano

6 days — Gorillas and Chimpanzees

11 days — Best of Uganda with Gorillas and Chimpanzees

Trekking to see the beautiful mountain gorillas

Trekking to see the beautiful mountain gorillas

Gorilla Parks/Families

Gorillas live in four parks in Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC).

In Uganda they are seen in Bwindi National Park and Mgahinga National Park. Bwindi in Uganda has four habituated families with 32 permits available daily. The gorillas there live in thicker tropical forest and tracking is more challenging as the hillsides are steeper and it can take 3-10 hours. Three of the families (Mubare, Habinyanja, and Rushegura) are accessed from Buhoma in the north. The fourth family, in Nkuringo in Southern Bwindi, is accessed from Kisoro. Access to this group is on a very steep trail. Mgahinga, in Uganda, is a great place to appreciate the unique Virunga volcanoes and has one habituated family, which is about 2-5 hours walk. Sometimes this group moves across the border and viewing is very erratic. You can track gorillas at Nkuringo in Southern Bwindi instead which is about 2 hours drive away. There are eight permits available.

Parc National Des Volcans (PNV) in Rwanda has seven habituated gorilla families (Group 13, Sabinyo, Amahoro, Umubano, Susa, Kwitonda and Hirwa). Most groups are half-day walks but Susa can take 7 hours. There are 36 permits available daily. Tracking in PNV and Mgahinga is usually easier than Bwindi as the afro-montane forest is lighter.

Getting There

In Uganda, the airport is Entebbe in Kampala. In Rwanda, the airport is in Kigali. There are non-stop flights from various cities in Europe; Nairobi, Kenya; Kilimanjaro, Tanzania; Johannesburg, South Africa; and Addis Abba, Ethiopia.

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Inca Trail Itineraries, Amenities, Constraints, and Requirements

INCA TRAIL

Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

Much has changed over the last decade on the Inca Trail.The experience is still unique and exhilarating but with the regulations that have come into place since the year 2000, many constraints have been placed.

A lot of areas of the trail have been reconstructed and the Institute of National Culture, which has financed this work, has replaced steep trail sections with steps. We consider that 30% of the trail has now been replaced by steps.

ITINERARIES AND DURATION

We offer two versions of the Inca Trail program.

The longer Inca Trail to Machu Picchu (5D/5N) one starts at Km. 82 of the railroad at Piscaycucho where we arrive by vehicle, walking along the right-hand side of the river until reaching Qoriwayrachina (Km. 88) where we usually have a picnic lunch. In the early afternoon, we cross the footbridge and visit the ruins of Q’ente (if time permits) and the complex of Patallacta before heading to camp at Chamana, a campsite opposite Patallacta, across the Cusichaca stream (in the buffer zone of the MPHS).

The next day we head up the Cusichaca Valley and at Huayllabamba we begin our ascent to Llulluchapampa, below the first pass, where we camp.

Ruins on Inca Trail

Ruins on Inca Trail

On the third day, over the Warmiwanusqa Pass down to the Pacaymayo valley where we snack. Continue over the second pass of Runkuraqay and then past Sayacmarca Ruins to lunch at Chakicocha, a site with toilet facilities and allocated campsites. From here we continue to Phuyupatamarca where camp is set up at an allocated spot above the site.

The fourth day we descend via a visit to Phuyupatamarca ruins along the way to reach Machu Picchu by way of Inti Punku in the early afternoon and take the bus down to a reserved hotel. The fifth day is the guided visit of the citadel and return to Cusco in the afternoon on one of the scheduled trains.

SET DEPARTURE TREK PRICE: US$ 1120.00

The shorter version which we call the Inca Trail Express (2D/1N) is just the last two days of the above itinerary with no camping.

CAMPSITES

Camping on Inca Trail

Camping on Inca Trail

On the 5-day Inca Trail Trek, the first day we camp in a small community opposite Llactapata ruins, called Chamana where we have set up an exclusive campsite with toilets and a hot shower, as well as a cooking area, small support warehouse and a dining refuge.

The second day we camp at Llulluchapampa (below the first pass) and, depending on the congestion of other groups, we either camp at the entrance of the pampa near the new stand-up toilet facilities or at the higher end of the pampa in a more protected area.

Dining on Inca Trail

Dining on Inca Trail

The third day we camp above Phuyupatamarca Ruins at a designated camp-site now allocated by INRENA, the National Park Service. On the fourth day, arriving at Machu Picchu Pueblo the village, there are many options of hostels and hotels, depending on price range and availability. So it is important when booking the Inca Trail you let us know what standard hotel you want us to request, book and confirm, we will quote the price and confirm your booking.

At campsites we provide as usual —  kitchen and dining tents with stools and tables as well as a toilet tent, a side from two man tents with pads.

TOILET AND WASHING FACILITIES

Permanent bathrooms with wash basins have been established along the trail in certain areas. The only camp-site that we use which has access to bathrooms is Llulluchapampa. Other times where we have access to these facilities are at the lunch spots on the days we trek according to the itinerary we offer (Day 2, Day 3, Day 4). We continue to supply warm washing water in the morning and evening in bowls and, of course, toilet tents. Depending on the size of the group we supply one or two toilet tents. We have two systems available but they both require carry–out procedures and disposal at the end of the trek.

GOVERNMENT INSTITUTIONS

The National Institute of Culture (INC) is the entity in charge of the administration of all archaeological sites, monuments and the public museums in Peru. They are the ones that decide the prices for entrance fees to monuments, archaeological sites and museums. They are in charge of the reservation system which is managed and monitored by them. It is the institution where we purchase the entrance fee for the Inca Trail and the citadel (one or two day visits).

For the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu you have limited spaces (500 daily permits) including tourists and support staff. On their website: http://www.inc-cusco.gob.pe/Kratos/site/ you can check available spaces for the Inca Trail, on specific dates as a direct way of viewing availability, before accepting a booking while you discuss alternatives with clients and with us over e-mail. Click over “Ingresar como invitados”, then click on “Consultas”, next click on “Disponibilidad Camino Inca” and finally choose month and click on “Ver Disponibilidad”. These guidelines will let you know permits availability.

Through the “Intendencia de Areas Protegidas y Fauna Silvestre” (IANPFS), a division of INRENA (Instituto Nacional de Recursos Naturales) in charge of the National Park System, this entity receives a percentage of the entrance fee to oversee the natural resources and biodiversity conservation of the Machu Picchu Sanctuary. Soon this division will be integrated into the Ministry of the Environment, recently created.

RESERVATIONS

We recommend you make “Inca Trail to Machu Picchu” reservations with at least four (4) months prior to arrival.

Due to the new regulations for the Inca Trail, we need complete passenger information. You have to be aware that permits once requested must be paid within 24 hours when booking is made and are not refundable and cannot be transferred or modified.

The passenger information required includes:

  • Complete names (as they appear in passport)
  • Passport number
  • Nationality
  • Date of Birth

NOTE: If your passport number changes since original booking (renewed), please bring both passports to demonstrate the renewal and new passport emitted. It is best to make a copy of your passport before sending it in to be renewed.

GROUP SIZES

INC regulations allow a limited amount of passengers per group and a minimum amount of guides
per number of passengers:

  • 8 passengers: 1 guide
  • 9-15 passengers: 1 guide + 1 assistant Guide

The total number of support staff will be the number of clients in a group plus 4-6 staff (1 person would have 5 staff and 10 people would have 16 staff).

WEIGHT LIMITS FOR PASSENGERS AND PORTERS

The weight limit that each porter can carry is 20 Kilos (44 pounds), so that one porter can carry the luggage of two people.

NOTE: On the Inca Trail weight is an important factor, so we ask you to please pack lightly. The weight limit per person is 8 kilos (20 pounds). Sometimes couples choose to share a duffel bag. On Fixed Departures we can supply duffel bags on request the night before departure during the briefing session, so trekkers can repack their belongings if your luggage is too bulky. Depending on the lodging at Machu Picchu Pueblo we can arrange for part of your luggage, packed in a stuff sack, to catch up with you at Machu Picchu.

WALKING STICKS

If you prefer to use and recommend walking sticks, only the ones with rubber tips are allowed, or for that matter a wooden stick if you don’t have one of the modern models. The latter can be acquired in Cusco or Ollantaytambo, on the way to the start of the trek. No sticks with a metal tip are permitted.

MACHU PICCHU SANCTUARY ENTRY FEES

For the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu Trek (5D/5N), price for the permit is US$110. This includes the Inca Trail portion and the Entrance Fee to the citadel, validated for the next day if you arrive at the citadel after 2 pm at the check-point.

For the 2-Day Inca Trail Express (from Km 104-Chachabamba – Wiñay Wayna – Machu Picchu) the price for the permit is of US$70, and includes the visit to the citadel, specially validated for the next day if you arrive at the citadel after 2 pm. The prices are in soles and may change periodically due to US$ exchange rate and other factors.


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For people who are trekking the Salkantay route to Machu Picchu, it should be noted that on the 5th day, you will enter the Machu Picchu Sanctuary and a permit is required!  We will keep this in mind and help with the “timing” of the permit.

On all tours that we offer, as full day excursions, either on a full day or overnight extension, staying at one of the hotels in Machu Picchu Pueblo, at least one entrance fee is included. An extra visit is US$40 for the entrance fee and $20 for the shuttle bus.

DEPARTURES

There are set departures on the 5-day/5-night Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, on Sundays and Wednesdays, starting and ending in Cusco.

The 2-day Inca Trail Express can be requested any day according to availability. If no permits are available, we can provide an alternative half-day hike either from Machu Picchu to Intipunku (Gate of the Sun) or a hike up to Wayna Picchu (a limit of 400 passengers per day is permitted).

SERVICES INCLUDED

We will include transportation to start of trek and return train to Cusco at the end of trek, two-man tents, all meals on trek, commissary gear, bilingual guide, full day tour of Machu Picchu citadel with lunch included on Day 5, and lodging in Cusco on the 5th night.

SERVICES NOT INCLUDED

Taxes, tips, dinner in Machu Picchu Pueblo on the fourth night, alcoholic beverages, laundry, and extra entrance fees to the Machu Picchu Sanctuary.

ALTERNATIVE TREKS TO THE INCA TRAIL TO MACHU PICCHU

Remember we have developed different “off the beaten path” alternative treks that offer a similar experience with the plus that adventurers will sense a more pristine environment and a more in depth cultural experience, visiting communities along the way:

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11 Day Tibet Tour

AWR will be offering an 11-day set departure group tour of Tibet in 2009 that starts in Lhasa, follows the Friendship Highway, and ends in Kathmandu.  Tours will start in Lhasa every Saturday April through October.

Just $1235/person!

11-DAY TIBET TOUR OF LHASA AND THE FRIENDSHIP HIGHWAY >>

TOURS IN LHASA

Potala Palace, Tibet

Potala Palace, Tibet

Lhasa, the heart and soul of Tibet, is a city of wonders.  The Potala Palace, the once governmental and spiritual center of the Dalai Lama, has been the focus of travelers for centuries.  The Jokhang Temple is the spiritual heart of Tibet to which pilgrims travel hundreds of miles by foot.  Surrounding it is the colorful Barkhor Kora and market.  The Sera Monastery and Drepung Monastery are two of the world’s largest and most intact monasteries where monk still practice the traditional chanting and debating.  Norbulingka is the former summer palace of His Holiness Dalai Lama.

FRIENDSHIP HIGHWAY

The first stop along the Friendship Highway is Kampa La Pass with magnificent views of Turquoise Lake.  It is one of the largest and most sacred lakes in Tibet and a great spot for getting your picture taken atop a local yak.

Kumbum in Gyantse along the Friendship Highway

Kumbum in Gyantse along the Friendship Highway

The next stop is Gyantse with its amazing Kumbum stupa at the Peklor Chode Monastery as well as the 14th century Gyantse Dzong (fort).

Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet.  Here, the Tashilunpo Monastery holds an 85-foot high golden Buddha and the tomb of the first Dalai Lama.

One of the highlights along the Friendship Highway is Rongbuk and Everest Base Camp.  From Rongbuk, weather permitting, you can get some magnificent photos of Mt. Everest.  You can hike or take a horse cart to Everest Base Camp.

You may be able to visit Milerapa’s Cave on the way to your last stop in Tibet.  Zangmu is built into the side of a steep hill in a cloud forest.  From here, you cross the border into Tibet.

The Tibet tour ends here, but we can also help you book tours and trek in Nepal and also Bhutan.

11-DAY TIBET TOUR OF LHASA AND THE FRIENDSHIP HIGHWAY >>

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Travel Calendar

Here is a great calendar for planning your trip at just the right time!

JANUARY

  • Tanzania: Peak migration in southern Serengeti
  • Galapagos: Green sea turtles begin egg laying

FEBRUARY

  • Tanzania: Sauti za Busara Swahili Music and Cultural Festival in Zanzibar
  • Peru: Inca Trail closed for cleanup
  • Peru: Carnaval (Festival)
  • Ecuador: Carnaval (Festival)

MARCH

  • Bhutan: Paro Tshechu (Festival)
  • Tibet: Butter Lamp Festival
  • Peru: Inca Trail permits sell out for July and August

APRIL

  • Tanzania: Low season discounts
  • Peru: Semanta Santa (Holy Week) Celebrations
  • Galapagos: Massive arrival of waved albatrosses to Española Island with amazing courtship, green sea turtles begin to hatch

MAY

  • Tibet/Nepal: Peak season for Everest Base Camp

JUNE

  • Peru: Inti Raymi Festival
  • Tibet: Saka Dawa Festival
  • Elbrus: Climbing season begins (June-September)
  • Ecuador: Cotopaxi summer climbing season begins (June-August)

JULY

  • Tanzania: Peak migration in western Serengeti
  • Ecuador: Founding of Guayaquil Celebration
  • Galapagos: Whales and dolphins can be seen

AUGUST

  • Peru: Santa Rosa de Lima Celebration

SEPTEMBER

  • Tibet: Shoton (Yogurt) Festival
  • Ecuador: Fiesta del Yamor and Colla Raymi

OCTOBER

  • Kenya: Peak migration in Masai Mara
  • Bhutan: Thimphu Tshechu (Festival)

NOVEMBER

  • Aconcagua: Climbing season begins (November-February)
  • Bhutan: Black-necked cranes arrival and festival
  • Ecuador: Cotopaxi winter climbing season begins (November-February)

DECEMBER

  • Peru: Chocolatada Festival in Cusco (hot chocolate and gifts to city needy and rural villagers)
  • Ecuador: Founding of Quito Celebration
  • Galapagos: Giant tortoises begin to hatch
Posted in Bhutan, Ecuador, Galapagos, Inca Trail, Kenya, Kilimanjaro, Machu Picchu, Nepal, Peru, Safari, Tanzania, Tibet | Leave a comment

Zanzibar 7×5 Promotion

Kempinski Zanzibar

Kempinski Zanzibar

The Zamani Zanzibar Kempinski Hotel is offering a 7×5 promotion!  Stay 7 nights and pay for only 5 nights November 1 – December 18, 2008.

Kempinski is a world-class luxury resort located on the northeast part of Zanzibar Island.  Amenities include:

  • 110 rooms
  • 7 private villas
  • Swimming pool
  • An exclusive beach club and romantic Jetty Bar above the Indian Ocean

Prices start at $445/room/night half board.

Kempinski Zanzibar >>

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Kilimanjaro and Safari Journal July 25 – August 9, 2008

Tanzania:
A Combination of Geology, Culture, Nature

By
Theresa Daus-Weber

From the thin air of 19, 340-foot Uhuru Peak on the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro through the crater of the Great Rift Valley, the Serengeti’s exotic wildlife, and the shelter for Moshi street children, visiting Tanzania was as enlightening as it was memorable.  Sunrise on the Roof of Africa on August 1, 2008 was definitely the trip’s highlight.

Since participating in the2006 Mexican volcanoes climb that included the summit of Orizaba (18,700 feet), the third highest point in North America, I wanted to participate in another mountain trip offered by Marshall Ulrich, a Seven Summitter and an ultrarunning friend for the last 20 years.

With the motivation to find the elevation where I am affected by altitude and the desire to see exotic Africa, I was the first to sign up for Marshall’s next Team Stray Dogs Kilimanjaro climb that included a five-day safari to three of Tanzania’s stunning wildlife parks.

Team Stray Dog at the summit of Kilimanjaro

Team Stray Dog at the summit of Kilimanjaro

Going to Africa

Arriving in Tanzania at the Kilimanjaro Airport in Moshi, a small international city with a population of about 150,000 and it seemed about an equivalent number of cell phone company bill boards, I was surprised at the developed aspects of the airport.  I erroneously expected chaos, broken infrastructure, a cacophony of languages all framed in sweltering humidity.  Baggage claim was streamlined since I had no baggage to claim.  I learned that missing climbers’ luggage at the Kilimanjaro airport is routine and arrives in a day or two just in time to pack mountaineering gear for the trek.

An efficient European manufactured van drove us from the airport through the quite dark night to the tour company’s hotel.  The low-pressure shower and mosquito netting over the bed was welcomed and the equatorial landscaping was lovely.  Mt Kilimanjaro information, maps, paintings, climbing and safari tourist guests throughout the hotel telling stories of their Tanzanian adventures and safari jeeps packed in the hotel’s small parking lot raised the excitement for the mountain that allowed only a brief view through the clouds.

The tour company liaison, Phillip, Anderson our guide, and Seni the assistant guide, conducted a professional, informative, efficient meeting explaining what we needed to know about the trip and set our departure time for the next morning.

The Roof of Africa

After an hour drive in the van crammed with the six Stray Dogs 35-pound “porter bag” packed with our sleeping bag, pad, and mountain clothing that porters would carry on their heads throughout the trek, we arrived at the Machame Gate (6,000’) of the Kilimanjaro National Park.  The paved drive out of Moshi to the gate turned to a dirt road surrounded by lush coffee and banana plantations edged with brilliant equatorial decorative plants and flowers.  Many of these robust plants I recognized on a small-scale as the houseplants in our American homes.

The permitting process to enter the park was long due to the large number of tourists and their touring companies who were also obtaining permits that day. In all there were 350 tourists and supporting porters, cooks, and guides surrounding us on the trails daily and at each of the camps through our week on the mountain.  Trekking Kilimanjaro during high season is not a private experience and while the government has made strides in managing tourism on the mountain, the impact of the high number of trekkers and their supporting touring companies is sadly evident.

When permitting was completed Team Stray Dogs started the 13,340-foot ascent of Mt Kilimanjaro from the rain forest filled with blue monkeys and lush vegetation that covered the trail with a living canopy.  Surprisingly the rain forest was not muddy and we encountered no rain on our way to the first night’s camp at 10,200 feet.

For the 5 days of the trek to Barafu Camp at 15,100 feet we hiked short distances averaging 7 miles at a very slow pace intended to acclimate trekkers.  At midnight of summit day, we woke fully rested since each of the day’s short hikes preceding summit day provided us 9 to 10 hours of rest.  We hoisted our packs full of gear we would need to summit that we packed the evening before began climbing in temperate, no wind conditions under a clear starlit sky.

Feeling at ease and strong on the dark, high trail but anxiously wondering the outcome of the attempt, I resigned to the group’s pace that would cause us to miss sunrise on the summit.  I filled the time by assisting the guides with the hikers affected by altitude and being grateful that the climb continued to be easy for me and that the weather continued to e so pleasant.  Slightly before 6:00 am we reached Stella Point on the crater at 18,600 feet to view the gorgeous sunrise.  Shortly after the spectacular sunrise I joyfully summitted Uhuru Peak surveying the world from the Roof of Africa and was thankful for the circumstance of a successful summit.

Descending from the summit we stopped at Barafu Camp to pack gear that we left 10 hours before and descended to the muddy rain forest camp.  While it was good to leave the muddy camp and head to the shower in our Moshi hotel I was sad to leave magnificent Mount Kilimanjaro.  After breakfast on our last day we presented gifts to porters that we brought from home and mountaineering gear that we used during our trek. In gratitude the porters danced to their soulful and simultaneously proud and enthusiastic a cappella Kilimanjaro and Mawenzi Song.

Good-bye, Kilimanjaro, and thank you—very much.

After the Summit: Orphanages and Safari

Before leaving for Africa I received donations from my employer, TeleTech, for the two orphanages that are sponsored by our travel company’s charity, Charities Within Reach.  After climbing Kilimanjaro, we visited the TunaHAKI orphanage in Moshi that houses orphans and street children.  At TunaHAKI the kids are taught acrobatics as a skill to make money when they are older. While Swahili is the first language of the orphanage’s school age residents, they readily understood and spoke English as they accepted school supplies and candy that we distributed.

Guide Laurie Bagley (left) and Theresa Daus-Weber distribute school supplies at TunaHAKI orphanage in Moshi.

Guide Laurie Bagley (left) and Theresa Daus-Weber distribute school supplies at TunaHAKI orphanage in Moshi.

The Stray Dogs Kilimanjaro trip included a fantastic 5-day safari.  The itinerary efficiently included a comprehensive tour of three locations combining rare geological features, authentic Maasai culture and villages, and rich animal life.  From Lake Manyara’s rare tree lions lounging in a stately African Acacia tree within 20 feet of the open top Land Cruiser, to being surrounded by the herds of grazing zebra, giraffes, elephants, and wildebeest we catch glimpses of lion cubs hidden in the grass and the cheetah mother and cub within 20 yards of the Land Cruiser.  The lone lion whose full mane and head looked more enormous moving past our vehicle than it appears on National Geographic TV broadcasts.  Our safari included a visit to Olduvai Gorge where Drs. Louise and Mary Leakey conducted their pioneering anthropological studies of human origins. Our last safari day took us to Ngorongoro Crater with the hope of seeing one of only 18 remaining black rhinoceros living in the crater. These rare creatures are highly protected by law enforcement watching the 26-mile wide crater from the rim through telescopes.

Observations of Tanzania

The 2-week trip offered an opportunity to observe aspects of Tanzania.  Here are some observations that linger with me.

  • In the 7 days on the Machame Route surrounded by many tour groups we encountered one local woman guide and one woman porter.  Clearly these roles require intense strength, but the minuscule number of women in these roles may reflect cultural more than physical requirements.
  • The cell towers that interrupt the otherwise undeveloped landscape of the Serengeti offer cell service to keep safari guides and otherwise the native Maasai connectivity.  I was curious how the Maasai charge their cell phones?
  • The traditional nomadic Maasai seemed to migrate through cities with their herds of goats and cows as quietly as they move among the vast open wilderness of the Serengeti endless plain. For as small and as camouflaged as they appear in the natural landscape of the Serengeti, their brilliant colored tunics strike me as incongruous.
  • Within the Tanzania economy where the average annual income is approximately $350, porter positions are competitive and they are paid well by trekker tips, but I was uneasy with the large number of porters and their effort to support what was me.  I was uneasy with my “footprint” on Mount Kilimanjaro.

About the Author

A resident of the mountains in Colorado, Theresa is a Leadville Trail 100 champion and has completed that high-altitude ultra 11 times among the 130 ultras she finished throughout the world.  Theresa has summitted many of Colorado’s 54 14,000-foot peaks.

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