Chamonix and the Mont Blanc Massif, Part One

This past October AWR’s Tilden Daniels traveled to Chamonix, France. Located beneath the Mont Blanc, western Europe’s highest peak at 15,781 feet, the Chamonix valley is a must-see destination for anyone who loves the mountains. Here is the first of two trip reports.

The Bossons Glacier and the Dôme du Goûter

As the train made its way up the narrow valley I admired the verdant forest and the steep slopes. Then, after a bend in the tracks, I looked up upon the ice falls of the Mont Blanc’s impressive Bossons Glacier. I was in Chamonix to visit hotels and do some fall hiking, returning here for the first time since moving back to the US from Geneva. I’d visited the valley numerous times with friends to hike and climb, but it had always been for a day trip and by car.  Taking the train for the first time gave me the opportunity to gaze up at the massif above Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, the town’s official name that includes the mountain that made it famous. The mountains seemed bigger, the cliffs seemed steeper, and the glaciers seemed whiter than they had ever been before.

De Saussure and Balmat, the first "conqueror" of the Mont Blanc

During the 1920s Brad Washburn, the famous American mountaineer, spent summers in Chamonix as a teenager, learning the art of climbing mountains in this idyllic alpine environment. I had dreamt of Chamonix while reading about Washburn’s formative climbing experiences on the Mont Blanc, and, as I gazed upon the valley walls, I remembered other tales of climbing in the massif including the first ascent of the Mont Blanc in 1786 by Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard organized by Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, the exploits of guides including Gaston Rébuffat, the novels of Roger Frison-Roche, pioneering big wall climbs by Walter Bonatti in the 1950s and 60s, and modern climbs by Arnaud Petit. The massif is certainly steeped with history and mountaineering legend.

Junior suite at the Le Morgane hotel, Chamonix

All visitors to Chamonix, whether arriving by train, bus, or car, will quickly be able to find their way around the town. Since I was traveling light I walked to the helpful tourist office where they provided me with a map and directions to my hotel, the four-star Le Morgane. After a five-minute stroll I arrived in the tastefully decorated and recently renovated hotel where I was greeted by the welcoming staff and the hotel manager, Tiphaine. For those looking for an upscale and comfortable lodging experience, Le Morgane is an excellent choice. It has modern rooms, a restaurant and bar, and a full service spa. My spacious room included a balcony with magnificent views of the Mont Blanc and the Aiguille du Midi.

Chamonix and the Mont Blanc

Chamonix is a charming, vivacious mountain town with excellent shopping, numerous restaurants and cafés, and old-world streets and squares all in a spectacular setting. I walked around the town center and strolled along the banks of the Arve river. After visiting several hotels I walked by the Musée Alpin (Alpine Museum) and the Maison de la Montagne (Mountain House or Guide’s Office). Chamonix is also France’s official mountaineering center and the alpine training center lies on the edge of the town’s center with towers named after Himalaya massifs.

I noticed a brewpub off past the end of the training center and decided to check out the Micro Brasserie de Chamonix (Chamonix Mirco Brewery). The friendly brew master poured me a glass of excellent pale ale and conversed with clients in both French and English. I commented on the smooth nature of the pale ale and he replied that he brewed it that way since the locals don’t have the palette for the “hoppy” style of American pale ales and IPAs. It was good beer and a great atmosphere. I felt right at home.

The "needles" ("aiguilles") above Chamonix

I strolled back to the center of town and chose one of the numerous restaurants. I ordered the hearty specialty of Haute Savoie (Chamonix is in the French department of Haute Savoie): Tartiflette. As I ate my meal of potatoes covered with Roblechon cheese and bacon served with a green salad, I thought about the next two days hiking along the south and then the north side of the valley and the wonders that awaited me: the Mer de Glace glacier and towering, granite needles of the Mont Blanc massif; the wild beauty of the Aiguilles Rouges with pristine mountain lakes; and views over the Mont Blanc.

Stay tuned for my next post on these two amazing hikes.

— Tilden Daniels / Adventures Within Reach

Interested in visiting the Chamonix valley? Visit our website to learn about hiking and skiing trips departing from Chamonix or contact us for information about visiting the area and custom trips.

AdventuresWithinReach.com/europe

More Photos:

All photos © Tilden Daniels, 2010.

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Last Chance Aconcagua for February 2011

Aconcagua Normal Route

Aconcagua Normal Route

It’s not too late to join our Aconcagua trek up the Normal Route February 14 – March 2, 2011. We have a fun group of people, all of whom have climbed Kilimanjaro already.

Itinerary in Brief

  • DAY 1: Arrival in Mendoza
  • DAY 2: Transfer to Penitentes
  • DAY 3: Hike to Confluencia
  • DAY 4: Acclimatization hike
  • DAY 5: Hike to base camp
  • DAY 6: Acclimatization/ rest day
  • DAY 7: Acclimatization hike
  • DAY 8: Acclimatization/ rest day
  • DAY 9: Climb to Plaza Canadá
  • DAY 10: Climb to Nido de Cóndores
  • DAY 11: Climb to Berlin camp
  • DAY 12: Summit bid
  • DAY 13: Extra day
  • DAY 14: Extra day
  • DAY 15: Descent
  • DAY 16: Descent and return to Mendoza
  • DAY 17: Departure

Full itinerary for the Aconcagua Normal Route >>

Price $3300/person

Contact us immediately to book!

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Delfin Amazon River Cruise in Peru

Starting and ending in Iquitos, you will experience the Amazon Rainforest as you never have thought possible on the Delfin Amazon River Cruise in Peru! Visit the Pacaya-Samiria national reserve, hike to the community of Yanallpa, explore the jungle on walks and skiff trips, tour Atun Paza Lake, and relax on board the luxury cruise ship.

Itinerary in Brief

  • DAY 1: Arrive Iquitos, board cruise ship, briefing and overnight on board.
  • DAY 2: A day of cruising, jungle hikes, excursions into the rainforest, overnight on board.
  • DAY 3: Tours within the Pacaya- Samiria National Reserve, overnight on board.
  • DAY 4: Explore the Yarapa River and Puerto Miguel Village, return to port, depart Iquitos.

See full itinerary for the Delfin Amazon River Cruise >>

This amazing luxury adventure starts at $1989/person, but we have a reservation for four people on the Delfin II for April 24-27, 2011 with a 10% discount off the Suite cabin rate. Dates may be negotiable. If you would like to receive more information or book this 4 day cruise, please contact us!

Delfin Amazon Cruise

Delfin Amazon Cruise

Delfin Amazon Cruise -- Dining Room

Delfin Amazon Cruise -- Dining Room

Delfin Amazon Cruise -- Lounge Area

Delfin Amazon Cruise -- Lounge Area

Delfin Amazon Cruise -- Cabin with a view

Delfin Amazon Cruise -- Cabin with a view

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Lake Titicaca and floating isles of Uros

You will find a gem in Peru that is beyond Lima, Cusco and Machu Picchu!  A side trip to Puno and Lake Titicaca is well worth the bus or airfare.  This destination in the southern area of Peru became popular when the National Geographic Magazine featured the Uros people and culture;  the group is known for living on floating islands made of reeds.

You may visit Puno and spend a day touring Lake Titicaca by boat, where you will visit the Uros floating isles, as well as the island of Taquile, another amazing cultural group of people.  To enhance your experience, you can stay over night at a family lodge on one of the islands.  A bi-lingual guide will be with you for the trip.

More information is available at:  http://www.adventureswithinreach.com/peru/overview.php?tripid=70

Allow three days to visit this area.  You will also want to experience the Puno city life and tour the Sillustani burial ruins while there!

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Travel Photo Advice

We all want to take great pictures on our holidays to remember the amazing adventures.  And while we would love to take pictures like a professional photographer, we don’t want to spend thousands of dollars, lug around a hundred pounds of equipment, or spend two hours setting up one shot.  Here is a quick list of things I try to remember and prepare for when I am shooting pictures on a trip.  I hope they are helpful to other travelers out there!

Adjust the Equipment

Check the date and time on your camera — especially if traveling a long distance.

Check the auto-focus and image stabilization buttons — they can get switched off accidentally.

1) Know your destination

Each destination has it’s own unique photographic and environmental challenges. In cold climates you will want to be careful about condensation and concerned with battery life; in desert and beach locations, you will want to be prepared to keep sand out of the fine moving parts of your camera; and in the rainforest, you will want to be prepared for low light shooting conditions and naturally, the rain. Knowing the climate and conditions of your destination will help you protect your expensive equipment and insure better photo results.

2) Be prepared for traveling

Buy lots of batteries, extra disks, voltage converter, tripod (mini and/or large lightweight), bag for traveling, bag for carrying, and a microfiber cloth.  You will need to pack everything for flights and long drives, and you will need to be able to carry things around easily during the day.

3) Advice for interesting photos

  • Take pictures of people:
  • Close up
  • With a good background
  • Doing an activity
  • As silhouettes
  • Not in front of building from far away
  • Look for a juxtaposition
  • Look for humor
  • With a splash of color
  • From a strange perspective or angle
  • Take a picture close up and then far away

4) Night Shots

For good night shots, use a tripod, external trigger, and a long exposure.

5) Flash Advice

  • Instead of using a flash, try using a higher ISO setting (like 800).  However, this will make the photo look grainy, so try it both ways.
  • Don’t use a flash in front of a window unless the lens is right up against the window.
  • Use during mid-day to fill in shadows (faces under baseball hats)
  • Use only on subjects within 10 feet

6) Save battery life

Remember that batteries get used up more quickly in cold weather, when using the LCD screen, and when using flash, so plan accordingly.

7) Practice before you go

Many of the newer digital cameras have a stunning array of features that you would be well-advised to play and experiment with before you go on your next big adventure. Practice makes perfect, and in this case, practicing with your camera makes perfect pictures.

8) Take lots and lots of pictures

If the picture isn’t perfect right now, take it anyway, and then wait for the perfect picture.  If perfection never comes, at least you will something!  (Take a picture of the elephant now, and if he moves next to the beautiful tree, take that picture too.)

9) Pay attention to details

Pay attention to bad things in your picture like a road in the foreground, other people’s heads, cars driving past, etc.

Find a strong point of interest.

Get close to your subject — fill the frame.

Narrow in on a small detail.

10) Know the “Rules of Thirds”

If you are going to learn and apply one artistic principle to your shots, the “rule of thirds” is arguably the most worthy to understand. The essence of the rule is better composition; the benefit: better, more appealing photographs.  One place to start is here: http://www.digital-photography-school.com/rule-of-thirds

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The best experiences may not be on the itinerary

Avebury vs. Stonehenge

Everyone has heard of Stonehenge, the circle of mysterious big rocks.  Thousands of tourists flock there every year to get their own personal photographs of this mythical spot.  They have done a good job of protecting the stones and providing a good visitor experience with information boards and keeping visitors behind a rope 20 feet from the rocks.

However, did you know that just a few miles away is another village called Avebury that also has enormous stones in a much larger circle, and you can walk right up to them?  This is what we call an authentic experience that only a local guide will know about and will make your trip memorable.

Some other incredible but lesser-known experiences we recommend:

1.       Climb Mt. Meru in Tanzania instead of Kilimanjaro

Climbing Mt. Meru

Ash Crater at Mt. Meru

While it’s not one of the “Seven Summits”, Mt. Meru is arguably a more beautiful hike, shorter, with wildlife right off the trail (buffaloes and giraffes), and the views of Kilimanjaro at the Mt. Meru summit are incredible.  Mt. Meru can be done in 3, 4, or 5 days.

 

2.       See Tigers in the Wild at Chitwan National Park in Nepal
Most people go to Nepal for the trekking, but just south of Kathmandu is an amazing wilderness area where you can see tigers in the wild, take a bath with an elephant, and go in a dugout canoe to see the crocodiles.

3.       Amazon Rain Forest in Ecuador
If you go to the Galapagos, the animals are so plentiful, it is almost like going to a zoo in the wild.  In the Amazon, finding the animals is more like a treasure hunt.  The wildlife is harder to find, but equally as rewarding.

4.       The Lakes District in Chile
Everyone has heard of Patagonia, but the Lakes District in Chile has some of the most beautiful landscapes in the world and is a great multisport destination.

Also see “10 Fun Things to do in Peru that You Might Not Know About” >>

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Random Acts of Kindness (RAK) – while traveling

I recently flew an international flight into San Juan, Puerto Rico.  By the time I picked up my rental car, I noticed that my laptop was gone.  I retraced me steps as far as I could until I hit the security blockade.  It was only because of the helpful people at Cape Air who made countless phone calls and radio calls to points unknown to find my laptop, which had been left in baggage claim on the other side of U.S. customs.
Adventures Within Reach
Upon reflection, I had tipped my rental car shuttle bus driver basically for doing his job (moving my luggage and driving me to their office), but I barely got to say “thank you” to Cape Air people who saved my (intellectual) life.  I concluded that there are just some things that you can’t pay back adequately, so you just have to return the good deed by helping someone else who is in need – Random Acts of Kindness (RAK) – that can mean so much.

Other RAK experienced by Adventures Within Reach folks when traveling.

  • Two different shopkeepers in Ecuador, calling our driver, hotel, and taxi service to get us a car and driver back to the airport in time even though we didn’t buy anything from them.
  • The shuttle bus in Nairobi, Kenya who held on to our bag of souvenirs that we accidentally left on the bus.
  • A taxi driver in London who found my travel card and returned it to me the next day.
  • The woman who offered me her home and a ride the next day when I got stranded in her tiny mountain town. She even took me out for drinks that night in one of the most beautiful settings I’ve ever seen!
  • A flight attendant who handed me a gratis bottle of Prosecco at then end of a 12 hour flight for no reason, other than to be friendly. I was speechless with surprise.
  • A poor family who brought me and my friends in during a torrential freak rainstorm that drenched us immediately. They insisted we wear their clothes while ours dried on the radiator, fed us a huge lunch and sang us songs until the rain let up. I’ll never forget their hospitality.
  • A kind theater usher who spent the day showing me his city when he found out that I was traveling alone. Five years later we’re still good friends and speak at least every month.
  • I asked for directions from a girl who ended up driving me all the way across town, back to the subway, to make sure I got where I was going.
  • Countless strangers who have come out of the blue to act like my best friend- whether I’m struggling to find my metro pass (and they’ve paid with theirs), lost in new surroundings (and they’ve graciously helped me navigate my way) or just feeling overwhelmed by my travels (and they’ve lent a smile and some kind conversation).

Well, I’ve shared my experiences… and am in the holiday spirit of generosity just thinking about them! What are some of yours?

More inspirational stories to warm your travelin’ soul:

A Tale of a Harrowing Motorcyle Accident and the Kindness of Strangers                     by The Roamantics (Experts on Nat Geo’s Travel Channel)

A Travelers’ Mis-Adventures with Train Schedules (and the Italians who Rescued Him) by Jools Stone (Avid Travel Blogger)

The Gatorade Angels who Saved a Family Bike Trip
by Nancy Sathre-Vogel (A Father Biking with his Two Sons and Wife Across the U.S.)

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Machu Picchu Trek: “The Best Trip Ever”

This blog post is by AWR collaborator Sarah Martens. Sarah and her husband Ted are currently traveling around the world in search of adventure and, along the way, sampling some of AWR’s great trips and looking  for new destinations.

If you are considering a trekking trip to Machu Picchu and you like the idea of a little luxury at the end of a long day on the trail, then you are in luck.  AWR’s Salkantay Trek with the Mountain Lodges of Peru (MLP), which culminates with a day at Machu Picchu, is honestly THE best trip my husband and I have ever been on.

Many people hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, but there are actually dozens of different treks (and Inca Trails for that matter!) that you can do that will get you to Machu Picchu.  In addition most variations are a lot less crowded and can even be more scenic than the most commonly used trail.  The MLP trip travels the Salkantay Trail, and not only were there days that we didn’t see another hiking group, but the impressiveness of the glaciers and the mountain ranges that we saw along the way were absolutely spectacular.

Whether it be the Inca Trail, the Salkantay Trail or another, most trekking companies take 3-4 days to do their trips and these involve rather long days of hiking and then camping each night.  The MLP trip is different because they spread out the 24 miles of hiking over 6 days (one of these being an acclimatization day) and you get to spend each night in unique, incredible lodges (with hot tubs!) eating beautifully-presented, wonderfully-delicious meals.  In addition, MLP staff and guides provide over-the-top customer service and think of every last detail to spoil you rotten (why yes, I would love a cool towel and a glass of fresh fruit juice after my long day of hiking!).

I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves with a few of the many highlights included:

Our first view of the Humantay Glacier. There we were walking along on our first day of the trek and then we rounded the corner to see the most beautiful glacier-covered mountain peak.

The view from the hot tub at the first lodge (with the Salkantay Glacier and Humantay Glacier in the distance).

The highest we’ve ever been! The pass on our third day of hiking took us over 15,000 feet! We have done a few 14ers (14,000 foot peaks) in Colorado, but this was certainly our first 15er.

Wayra Lodge – the second lodge we stayed in on our trek. It has to be situated in one of the most beautiful places in the world.

The food. Peruvian food was impressive nationwide, but the food we had on this trip was truly gourmet. We’ve never taken so many pictures of food in our lives. They were absolutely works of art.

And of course, Machu Picchu. We were having such a fantastic time on our trek that we nearly forgot that we got to go to Machu Picchu at the end of it! Our MLP guide was our guide at Machu Picchu and did an incredible job explaining the fascinating history.

More pictures from the trek >>

So, if you can’t tell, we absolutely loved the trip and would do it again tomorrow. A huge thank you to Adventures Within Reach for putting this trip together for us – it more than exceeded our expectations. It was the first thing we did upon arriving in Peru and it certainly set the stage for the amazing time we were going to have in this country.

Check out Sarah and Ted’s blog to learn more about their ongoing adventure: http://tedandsarah.com/

Posted in Inca Trail, Machu Picchu, Peru, Trekking | 2 Comments

Luxury Travel Items That Are So Worth It

Whether you are going on a safari to Tanzania, a trek to Everest Base Camp, or a Galapagos cruise, these luxury travel gadgets can make your trip much more pleasant.

TranslatorTranslator

The right translator with you can be an invaluable asset if you are traveling abroad.  The top-of-the-line translator is worth every penny if it helps you communicate your needs and wants.

Livescribe’s Pulse smartpen  can aid with travel phrases in, say, Japanese, Korean, Spanish, German or French. After downloading a language app to the pen, ink a phrase in English on the special paper and you’ll clearly hear (from its speaker) and see (on its little screen) the translation! Or use this little high-tech wonder to keep a multimedia journal. Simply write notes while recording what you say, then upload the audio-synched scrawlings to your computer.

First Class/Business Class Seats

This is particularly true for international flights where you can lay your seat back flat, and you have some space between you and the person snoring next to you.

Membership to an Airline Club (United Club, Admirals Club, etc.)

10% off on all Priority Pass annual membershipsIt is so nice to have a comfortable, quiet place to wait in an airport.  Did I mention free snacks, free drinks (even some cocktails), free WiFi, lots of outlets, someone to help change your seat assignments, TV’s, magazines and news papers.

Priority Pass offers access to over 600 airport lounges around the world.  Memberships start at just $99/year, and guests can join you in the lounge as well.

Luxury ToiletriesTake the Spa with You

Don’t let the airlines stop you from bringing top-of-the-line beauty products. Some luxury toiletry kits include caviar shampoo, potpourri, Evian® facial spray and mint foot scrub.

Kindle or iPad

I used to share books with my travel companions.  After reading half the book, I would tear it in half and give someone the first half while I read the second half and vice versa – just to save on space and weight.  The ability to read any book you want without having to actually carry a heavy, bulky book – what a concept!

vintage louis trunkHigh Quality Luggage

After buying a set of 5 nesting suitcases for $100 and having them fall apart in less than a year, I really appreciate my husband’s Samsonite that he bought 20 years that has certainly taken a licking and has kept on ticking.  Wait, I’m mixing metaphors….

Fancy Camera

Every time I go on safari (4 times now), I wish I had a nicer camera and a bigger lens.  I finally have the ultimate camera setup, and I just wish I had bought it sooner.

Noise canceling headset
Noise Cancelling Headsets

All I can say is don’t knock it until you try it.

GPS

This is probably just for the technology lovers out there, but it is fun to track where you have been and even do a little Geocaching.

Global Phone

It sure is nice to be able to make phone calls wherever you are and not have to worry about astronomical charges.

Outdoor Wrist Instrument

An all-in-one watch, altimeter, heart rate monitor, barometer, chronograph, thermometer, alarm like the Loft Altiware Series.

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Climbing Ecuador’s Amazing Volcanoes

Adventure travel to Ecuador includes visiting the high peaks of the Cordillera de los Andes. Many of Ecuador’s volcanoes are capped with glaciers, offering beautiful scenery and interesting climbing objectives for mountain lovers. Our trips to these peaks take climbers to the world’s highest active volcano (Cotopaxi at 5,897 m / 19,347 ft) to appreciate the magnificent, huge summit cone. Other peaks include Chimborazo (6,310 m / 20,702 ft) and Cayambe (5,790 m / 18,996 ft).

Cotopaxi

Cotopaxi

Our itineraries, ideal for modern adventurers and mountaineers, include a 14-Day Six Ecuadorian Peaks trip and an 11-Day Four Ecuadorian Peaks trip. If your goal is to trek and climb in these majestic mountains, it is worthwhile to summit and trek on several peaks. Both trips start with the relatively low altitude summit of Fuya-Fuya (4,294 m / 14,088 ft), allowing climbers to acclimatize for the higher altitudes that await them.

Our trips include a day with a practical snow and ice technique course on the Cayambe glacier. The course covers ice axe and crampon work as well as progression in snowfields, rope handling, belay in snow, and self-arrest technique. This practical training insures the safety of the group and prepares climbers for their summit attempts on Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.

While traveling through the high country of Ecuador, trekkers will be able to visit the Old City of Quito and discover the charming little thermal town of Baños.

Those interested in a trip including Ecuadorian Volcanoes and the Galapagos should consider joining guide, mountaineer, and adventure racer Marshall Ulrich on his trip scheduled for January 7-24, 2011. Visit his website, marshallulrich.com, to learn more about his trip or to sign up.

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